Cape Ochiishi: Vast scenery typical of Nemuro

Jutting out into the Pacific Ocean is the long, narrow Cape Ochiishi. The cape’s name is derived from the Ainu word okcis, which refers to the hollow at the base of the human neck. This is because the base of the cape that connects to the mainland is low and narrow, looking like the hollow at the base of the neck, and is connected to a tall, jutting out part that looks like a neck and head.

I parked my car in front of the gate and set off on a light hike. It takes about 30 minutes to get to the lighthouse. As soon as I started the hike, I was met with a herd of Yezo sika deer—there seem to be a lot of them living in this area. They appeared to be very relaxed and not bothered by my presence as they didn’t try to escape when they saw me.

Shortly after passing to the left of the Former Ochiishi Wireless Telegraph Station, I found a boardwalk. The landscape changed from grasslands to a forest of Sakhalin spruces hugging the boardwalk on both sides.

The Sakhalin spruce trees in this forest are shorter and have thinner trunks than the ones that grow elsewhere. Perhaps due to the sea fog that often occurs during the summer, the spindly trees created quite a peculiar sight standing in the haze.

After walking on the boardwalk for about 20 minutes, the forest came to an end and the view suddenly opened up. I came across a vast grassland and the red and white Cape Ochiishi Lighthouse greeting me on the horizon.

As I got closer to the lighthouse, I started to hear a loud rumbling like a subterranean tremor. I thought I must be hearing the vast ocean on the other side of the cape. Getting to the edge, I looked down and was so shocked by how high up I was that my legs froze.

The walk from the car park to the lighthouse was roughly 30 minutes at a leisurely pace. You can walk there and back, but if you still have time and would like to enjoy Cape Ochiishi a little more, it’s worth taking the Ochiishi-misaki Path. You can enjoy an expansive view of the seaside that is typical of Nemuro.

▶ Part of the Ochiishi-misaki Path route. It was my first time walking through an empty grassland. (Photo taken in October)

 Experiencing the dynamism of the Earth at Cape Hanasaki

The Hanasaki Lighthouse is located at the entrance of Hanasaki Port, which is famous for Hanasaki Crab. The lighthouse is a short walk along a promenade from the large car park nearby.

As I arrived at the cape, a clear blue sky opened up above me—a rare thing for early summer. Off in the distance I could make out Yururi Island, which is known as an uninhabited island where only horses live.

There was a small building facing the sea next to the lighthouse, known as a “bird hide.” Originating in England, this kind of hut is designed for observing wild birds. Inside, you’ll find pictures of seabirds that can be seen from Hanasaki Port. The hut is also equipped with small tables and benches so you can take your time and enjoy bird watching. There are seven bird hides in Nemuro City, and here at the Hanasaki-minato Kurumaishi Hide, you can see Pigeon Guillemot, Spectacled Guillemot, Least Auklet and other seabirds. If you’re lucky, you might spot various marine animals, including seals and sea otters. Next time I visit, I’ll definitely be packing a pair of binoculars.

Hanasaki Lighthouse has the same red and white pattern as Cape Ochiishi Lighthouse. Originally, lighthouses were mostly either white or white and black like the Nokkamappu Saki Lighthouse. However, many red and white lighthouses started to pop up after the Ishikari Lighthouse appeared in a movie with a fresh red and white paint job. This color scheme was picked to make it look more striking.

Taking the stairs that lead from the lighthouse to the coastline, you’ll notice various interestingly shaped rocks called kurumaishi. Known as pillow lava, this kind of rock formation formed during the Cretaceous period, approximately 60 million to 130 million years ago. They were created when submarine volcanic eruptions caused magma to rise up from deep below the Earth’s surface and become rapidly cooled when it hit the sea water. This area is home to many kurumaishi, ranging in size from 1 to 6 meters in diameter. The radial kurumaishi, with a diameter of 6 meters, is designated as a Natural Monument in Japan because of its size and beauty, which is rare even on a global scale.

▶This promenade takes you close to the shore. Once you reach the end, you’ll be able to see big waves smashing against rocks up close.

With the horizon stretching far out into the distance, the beautiful kurumaishi that existed before the birth of mankind, and the wild splashing of the waves up close; Cape Hanasaki allowed me to experience the dynamism of the Earth.

My reflections after visiting two capes

As I explored this area, I got the sense that even the sea has many faces, from silent waters to wild crashing waves. I came across various landscapes, from beautiful rock walls to grasslands stretching out as far as the eye can see. Visiting in early summer, colorful flowers were at their peak, but it also seemed to be a time of year when fog tends to drift into Nemuro. Visiting the same place later in the season is bound to reveal a new face that differs from the landscapes I encountered this time. And apparently there are more capes in the city. I’d like to continue my tour of the capes to discover new sights.